This is part of the basics when learning perfumery, we are going to be breaking down the process to make it easy to learn. Keep an eye out for the rest of these free courses that will be coming each week! Ok are you excited?! lets jump right in then!
Fragrance Families
Fragrance families are classification systems that assign individual fragrances into olfactory groups based on their predominant characteristics. The most common use of the classifications is to help people find fragrances they might like, even when they may not be able to smell the fragrance. Fragrance Families can generally be divided into the following categories:
Floral: Pretty and feminine, florals are the most popular family used in fragrances. Think of fresh cut flowers. In this family, many perfumes are created with only one type of flower – such as rose, violet or jasmine. Floral fragrances tend to have a distinctive feminine quality, although many fragrances containing floral notes are appearing in men’s cologne. They combine wonderfully with oriental, aquatic or fresh green families. This family can also be further divided into five subfamilies, such as floral fruity, floral oriental, floral water, floral green, and floral aldehyde. Some other popular floral scents we carry are plumeria, gardenia, lilac, lily of the valley, tuberose and ylang ylang. Floral perfumes are very popular, and rated #1 on the most recent of the most attractive fragrances men love on women, read more about that here. Popular florals perfumes include Mon Guerlain by Guerlain, Lancome La Vie Est Belle and Delina by Parfums de marly.
Oriental: Warm and sensuous, oriental fragrances are reminiscent of the exotic spices and sweet resins of the East. Fragrant clove, cinnamon, caraway, black pepper mingle with the sweetness of vanilla and hints of amber. Oriental fragrances also combine these spicy notes with floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang, creating scents that wrap you in the magic of far away lands. Guerlain's Shalimar, Chanel Coco, Calvin Klein Obsession
as well as Mula Mula are all classic Orientals.
Gourmand: Scents with "edible" or "dessert" like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla and tonka bean, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. The Gourmand fragrances are a relatively new category, but they have become so popular we feel they deserve their own fragrance family. With the concept of basing fragrances on edible notes, gourmand scents may contain notes such as spices, honey, vanilla, chocolate, amber and cinnamon. Gourmand scents are usually "comfy" and delicious and wear nicely in the cooler seasons. Designer fragrances considered gourmand are Thierry Mugler Angel, Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, and Plum Japonais Tom Ford
Woody: Warm and opulent, these fragrances typically consist of scents like frankincense, vetiver, oakmoss, myrrh, sandalwood and patchouli. Variations include hints of fresh citrus or sensuous silky musk, and can range from mossy to smoky. Some women may not like this group as they might find them too earthy and better suited to male fragrances, but this is totally dependent on the person. Examples of designer fragrances in the woody perfume family are Chanel No. 19 and Andy Warhol by Bond No. 9.
Citrus/Fruity: These fragrances capture the sparkling freshness and fruitiness of citrus oils such as bergamot, mandarin, lemon and pink grapefruit. Fruity fragrances are pleasing to the nose, notes of apple, berry, mango, peach, and other sweet fruits fall into this refreshing category. Fruit notes add an exuberance and charm to a fragrance and are most often blended with florals. A lot of citrus fruit scents tend to be top notes. Popular citrus fragrances are Neroli portfolio by Tom Ford or Lavanila - Vanilla Grapefruit.
Greens: Green tea leaves, green grass, fresh herbs, vines and leafy scents give these fragrances a clean, sporty attitude. This family blends well with florals and woods and occasionally sweet vanillic notes. Designer fragrances considered to be in the green fragrance family are Bvlgari Green Tea, Guerlain, Acqua Allegoria Herba Fresca, and Gucci Envy.
Aquatic: One of the newest families in perfume history, appearing in 1991. A very clean, modern smell leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. These refreshing cooling scents wash over the skin and give a sense of relief on hot summer days. The notes are watery, oceanic, airy, icy and dewy. Designer fragrances considered to be in the aquatic family are Calvin Klein Eternity Aqua and Sailing Day by Maison Martin Margiela.
Aromatic: Aromatic notes usually consist of scents such as thyme, rosemary, cumin, lavender, sage and other plants which possess a very intensive grass-spicy scent. They combine well with citrusy and oriental/spicy notes. The Aromatic family are typical of fragrances for men. Designer fragrances considered to be in the aromatic family include Rochas' Eau de Rochas, and Lancome's O de Lancome.
Each fragrance family has a unique personality and, instinctively, you will prefer fragrances from some and dislike ones from others. Many people, of course, like fragrances from more than one family, and some like fragrances from all of the fragrance families. Still, knowing the fragrance family can be very helpful simply in that it might give you some clues as to a fragrance's general character. If you had a favorite Brand and you knew that it was a citrus, or an oriental or a floral, that might help you decide whether or not a new fragrance in that family was something you wanted to try. When designing your custom perfume, it is best to consider blending scented oils from more than one family, this will give you a more balanced and creative fragrance. Fragrance families are one of many tools we use to guide you through the perfume creation process. This knowledge will help you when creating fragrances, so bookmark it o refer back too. This fragrance wheel and pyramid
helped me a lot in the beginning!
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