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ODOR PROFILES / Fingerprints of single materials
Even a single aroma chemical rarely exhibits a single facet in it's odor. For example, most would agree that Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol displays primarily a rose character but many find it has a green note, others comment on it's phenolic or chemical aspects. If relative proportions are allocated to each facet that the student observes then classification falls into place quite easily.
(e.g., PEA might be classified as Rg indicating mainly R-Rose (70%) with a secondary G-Green note (30%).
Relative IMPACT - a measure of 'strength'
The expression 'impact' has been used in preference to 'strength'. Relative impact is determined by using a Micropipette to apply a fixed amount of Linalool onto a smelling strip. The test material is added until the odour impact is judged as the same. Linalool Synthetic was chosen as the control reference material as it is readily available, being one of the most abundantly used raw materials in perfumes and flavours and because the quality from the major suppliers does not vary greatly (Givaudan, IFF, etc. Linalool from natural sources is not suitable). In terms of its impact it falls about midway (exponentially) in the range of materials used by the perfumer.
Odour LIFE
Odour life is determined on the smelling strip (thinner chromatography 'paper' gives more consistent results) to the point at which the material becomes weak and uncharacteristic of itself. The results of this type of examination are very dependent on the amount dipped, ambient temperature, humidity, air-flow and testers' differences and experience. Despite this even in poorly controlled conditions one is able to produce a set of comparative values that are worthwhile measures of raw materials relative odour lives.
Function
Every component in a perfume formula (or 'compound') is there for one or more specific functions within the odour.
Heart Material It may be there to give the heart smell of the fragrance, a rose smelling material in a Rose perfume, balsam, vanilla and oakmoss in an Oriental fragrance.
Heart materials therefore cover the whole spectrum of A-Z
Modifiers To modify or decorate the fragrance, add style, naturalness, freshness, diffusion etc. Decoration for the fragrance like a banana note in jasmin and top-note modifiers such as citrus notes (lemon, limes etc.). If modifiers are overdosed then they become the subject and therefore the heart.
Blenders Materials to blend the sometimes disparate heart and modifying notes, to round or smooth off, to harmonise. Blenders usually have impact levels of 100 or less.
Fixatives In completion to fix the fragrance giving depth, substance and background. Fixatives usually have longer odour lives.
The post about fragrance families and the descriptions for commonly used fragrances will help when starting out.
What is the ABC of Perfumery©?
If you think about it, each of our senses has a classification system or kind of a “language” of its own that provides accurate description, understanding and interpretation of its different concepts with somehow a universal meaning:
If you would want to describe a color, then you have different pantones that make the classification quite simple, practical and easy to catalog. When it comes to measurement, through physics and the vast knowledge about light, measurement nowadays is not an issue.
When it comes to sounds, there are different notation systems, being the western staff notation system the most popular one, with its basic 7 notes (C D E F G A B or DO, RE, MI FA, SOL, LA, SI), and the different signs and words to measure duration, pitch, tempo and variations on playability and other factors. And again, if we want to get detailed, we can measure sound with an infinitesimal exactitude level using again physics, through waves and cycles.
If we talk about the Skin, through different receptors located throughout our bodies we have the ability to detect touch, pressure, vibration, pain, itch and even tickle and our language has the words to describe all of these sensations and its variations.
In regards to taste, basically there are 7 different types: bitter, salty, sour, astringent, sweet, pungent, and umami. 7 words for 7 different tastes. We have even identified specific locations in our tongue that receive information on each of these categories. Perfect.
And finally, Uh, la la, Paris, Paris, city of perfumes…when it comes to smell we have…NOTHING! Even though there has been several attempts to build a classification system for smells (Rimmel’s, Crocker-Henderson, Bain’s, Jaubert’s, Tapiero’s & Dore’s and a LOT more —you can read a super interesting article about this here—), all of them lack, one way or the other, at least one of all the necessary components a classification system should have to be effective:
o Have clear classes that single materials can easily fit.
o Cover all combinations of smells, preferably for a wider range of smells
than for just perfume or flavors.
o Be the basis for describing any odor.
o Recognize that an odorous substance, molecule or product may have
more than one facet to its smell. E.g. the smell of chocolate is sweet,
creamy AND balsamic.
o Have some factor that incorporates the pungency or strength of an odor.
o Have a time factor for how long the smell lasts.
o Be easy to learn.
So to answer the question what is the ABC of perfumery:
It is a systematic odor classification system created by PerfumersWorld’s owner Steve Dowthwaite that takes into account every one of the 7 aspect just mentioned! It is a system that is REALLY easy to learn. And even better: it is easy to use. It was originally conceived as a means to classify or catalog odors and it soon became the fundamental stone of a perfumery and odor compound design system also created by Steve.
Let’s see then how each of these aspects are covered in the ABC of perfumery©:
Clear classes for materials to easily fit: In the ABC of perfumery©, each class is one letter of the alphabet which at the same time is related with a word that represent a general description of that group. As instance, the F represents the group of Fruits and the S represents the group of Spices.
Cover all combinations of smells: Each group can combine with another one giving the smell a secondary or a subgroup descriptor.
Be the basis for describing any odor: Yup. EVERY odor fits somehow, somewhere in at least 1 letter.
Recognize that odors may have more than one facet to its smell: Each odor, will be a combination of different letters, conforming what it’s called odor profile.
Have some factor that incorporates the pungency or strength of an odor: That factor in this system is called odor impact and it is measurable.
Have a time factor for how long the smell lasts: Also taken into account. It will allow to understand and manipulate odor strength over time.
Be easy to learn: You are already in the process!
So, let’s dig deep into the ABC and let’s see which group of smells each letter represents:
To start with, even though names are more general than specific (“dairy” rather than butter or milk) all names are definitely descriptive of a smell. In the common description column you can find a couple of extra words that might help with the description in case you don’t understand exactly what the category is referring to.
What’s amazing is that this arrangement, from A to Z, also follows the different evaporation stages of a material, from top notes (A-H), through middle notes (I-S) to base notes (T-Y). So, when it comes to “organization” you would be organizing your materials not only by a specific classification of smell but at the same time, from their level of evaporation. Neat, right?
As an exercise, think of a smell, or even better, actually go grab some blotters, dip them into some materials and start smelling. Let’s say we start with Atlas Cedarwood. Where do you think it will fit? In which letter? Exactly, you are right! It will go with the W (Woods). What about Juniper berry EO? Probably since it is a fresh pine-like smell it would be a good match with the K (Konifers).
The term “AliFATic” was chosen over “aldehydic” to represent the "fatty" characteristic of straight chain aldehydes, alcohols and fatty acids. This is also why, as a reminder, is written AliFATic instead of Aliphatic.
Herbs are considered cool while spices are considered hot as a way to differentiate them and not confuse and mix them in a same “condiment” group.
Since Jasmin, Muguet (French is used to avoid confusion with other lily species) and Rose are well-known and recognized they were kept as specific groups. Also, because they are the main theme in the majority of fragrances.
The rich, sultry and exotic character of Benzoin and other resins were grouped under "Queen" of the Orient, term that embodies, relates and represent these smells.
Solvents and other low-odor additives, such as anti-oxidants were relegated to solvent with a "Z" ("Zolvent") to ensure that they could be conveniently grouped together at the end of a formula in line with the convention of formula writing.
Try to study this because it will help you recognize hundreds of different aromachemicals, or at least the general idea of them.
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